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PREGNANCY AND PARTURITION

Breeding cats can be an extremely rewarding experience.  However, before undertaking a breeding programme it is essential to understand what this involves; from the time of mating to the time of weaning.  It is also important to remember that there are many unwanted cats and that breeding requires responsibility for ensuring permanent, loving homes are found.

What happens when my cat comes into “call”?

Queens come into “heat” or “call” (oestrus) many times a year.  Cats in oestrus  become very affectionate and vocal, demand attention and roll frequently.  When stroked they raise their rear quarters and tread the ground with their back legs.  These behavioural changes can confuse the inexperienced owner who may misinterpret them as pain or illness.  The pattern of oestrus is very variable and can be seasonal.

What will mating entail?

Queens are reflex ovulators i.e. they ovulate in response to mating.  When mating, the male cat holds the queen’s scruff in his teeth and on his ejaculation the queen cries out, swears and frequently becomes aggressive.  This is normal.  She will then wash herself, wait a while, then start again.

How long will my cat be pregnant?

Pregnancy (gestation) ranges from 60-67 days; usually 63-65 days.  The date of breeding should therefore be recorded.

Will my cat’s diet supply need to be changed during pregnancy?

During pregnancy the queen’s food consumption will reach 1.5 times her pre-pregnancy level.  By the time of weaning it may exceed 2 times the pre-pregnancy level.  It will therefore be necessary to increase the number of meals given and/or feed a diet formulated for kittens, since this provides the extra nutrients required for pregnancy and nursing.

Will my cat’s behaviour change during pregnancy?

During pregnancy the cat's behaviour alters little, although some cats become more loving, and a few become aggressive.  During the final week the queen may search for a suitable kittening bed. Cats should be confined from this time, since when hidden, parturition difficulties may incur unnecessary suffering.

What do I need to prepare before my cat has her kittens?

The kittening bed can take many forms, but a cardboard box lined with newspaper, old sheets or towels is ideal.  The bed should be warm, cosy and private but in emergency must be observable.

First Stage Labour

This is essentially the relaxation of the cervix and vagina, and the start of intermittent contraction in the uterus.  The pelvic muscles slacken and the perineum (the area between the anus and the vulva) becomes looser and longer.  At this stage the uterine contractions are not yet visible as straining, although movement of the foetuses may be seen and felt through the abdominal wall.  There is little to see at this stage except repeated visits to the prospective kittening bed, and in the dependent type cat, an apparent desire for reassurance from the owner.  Some scratching up and bed-making may be evident and some cats may pant.  The queen usually stops eating during the last 24 hours before labour, and her temperature may drop below 37.8oC (100oF).  Vaginal discharge is rarely seen.  In the cat kittening for the first time, this first stage of labour can be very prolonged; even lasting up to 36 hours without being abnormal.

Second and Third Stages

In second stage labour the uterine muscle begins stronger and more frequent contractions.  As each foetus enters the pelvis, the outer layer of its membranes appears briefly at the vulva as the "water bag", which bursts and is cleared up by the cat.  The inner membranes remain on the foetus and act as a lubricant to assist its passage.

As the foetal head passes into the pelvis, its pressure causes the commencement of voluntary straining using the abdominal muscles. This "bearing down" helps to move the foetus through the pelvis.  This is usually the point at which the attendant can see that the cat is actually straining.  Normally, delivery of a kitten from the commencement of the second stage may take from 5 to 30 minutes.  Once the head is out of the vulva, one or two more strains should complete the passage of the narrower remainder of the kitten's body.

Third stage follows immediately and is seen simply as the passage of the membranes, complete with the greenish black mass of separated placenta (the after-birth).  Each set of membranes is normally passed immediately after the kitten itself, although sometimes a second kitten will follow so quickly that the membranes from the first will be tapped temporarily.  As each kitten is born the cat will tear open the membranes and clear the mouth and nose area of the kitten, bite off the umbilical cord and subsequently eat the after-birth.  Intervals between kitten births are variable; in the average case from as little as ten minutes up to an hour.

Interrupted Labour

So-called interrupted labour is sufficiently common in the cat to be considered a normal occurrence.  In this case the queen ceases straining, rests happily, suckles those kittens already born and accepts food, despite still having more kittens inside.  This resting stage may last up to 24 or even 36 hours, after which straining recommences and the remainder of the litter is born normally.

Owners should observe the process closely, but should not upset the queen by interfering any more than absolutely necessary.  Most cats deliver their kittens without complications, however, first time mothers should be attended by their owners.  Once all of the kittens have been born soiled bedding can be removed and replaced.

What problems can arise during parturition?

Most cats give birth to their kittens without difficulty.  However, dystocia (difficult birth) can occur.

A breeder should suspect that something may be wrong if:-

1.   Twenty minutes of intense labour does not produce a kitten.

2.   Ten minutes of intense labour does not expel a kitten seen at the queen’s vulva.

3.   If gentle traction on the trapped foetus causes the queen pain.

4.   The queen is depressed, lethargic or has a fever (rectal temperature >39.4oC, >103oF).

5.   The queen losses fresh blood from her vulva for more than ten minutes.

In the case of dystocia a veterinary surgeon should be consulted.

How do I revive a non-responsive new born kitten?

1.   Tear the membranes from the nose, wipe the nose and open the mouth, tilt the kitten head down and clear away any fluid.

2.   If the cord has not broken on delivery, tear it a good inch from the kitten and remove the wet, sloppy bulk of the membranes.  Complicated cutting and tying of the cord are not necessary.  The cat would chew it through, providing a blunt crushing action to prevent bleeding;  the midwife can tear it between their first two fingers and thumb, which does much the same thing.

3.   If the kitten is not breathing, or if it has come tail first and possibly inhaled fluid, it is necessary to clear debris and fluid from the air passages.  Take the kitten lying in the palm of the hand, its back towards the palm and neck between forefinger and third finger, its head protruding between the fingers.  Enclose the kitten in the fingers and, turning the hand palm downwards with the arm extended, give a sharp swing several times;  make quite sure first that you are not too near the table or other protruding edge or disaster will follow.  The swing will have the effect of forcing fluids out of the air passages and a further wipe of nose and mouth will clear it away.  The swing will also serve to stimulate respiration.  The kittens tongue is a reliable indicator of respiration.  If the kitten is receiving sufficient oxygen the tongue will be pink, if not it will have a bluish tint.

4.   The next move imitates the licking of the abdominal wall and stimulates respiration.  It comprises a stroking, rubbing movement with a clean towel.  Follow this by a brisk, general rub dry, assuming that the kitten is by now showing regular breathing.  If it is not, some further form of artificial respiration may be necessary.  Of these, mouth to mouth resuscitation is probably the most useful if carried out carefully.  There are several essential points to remember.  Firstly, it is no use blowing fluids and debris further down the respiratory tract;  these must be cleared by the swing method and/or gentle shaking of the kitten in the head-down position.  Secondly, the capacity of kitten lungs compared to the human is quite minute.  Blow very gently and allow a pause for expiration.  Repeat this cycle every three to five seconds.  Ideally, use a short drinking straw to blow through since this is more hygienic and reduces the risk of damaging the kitten’s lungs by over-inflation.

Warmth is a primary essential for the new-born.  The kitten cannot react to cold by shivering and cannot control its own body temperature.  In nature, warmth is obtained by direct body contact with the mother and conserved by the enclosed kittening bed.  The first point to remember if help is required is that a new-born wet kitten loses heat very rapidly, hence the brisk rub dry.  Follow this, if the mother is ill or not co-operative, by contact with a warm, well-covered hot water bottle and conserve heat with a covering blanket.  Great care must be taken not to inflict contact burns by having the bottle too hot.  An acceptable alternative is the infra-red lamp.  Its disadvantages are that many cats dislike the open bed required for its use, and that it may make both mother and kittens too hot and lessen the close normal nursing contact.  Ideally the temperature in the box should be maintained at 29.4-32.2oC (85-90oF), but the box should be large enough for the kittens to move away from the heat if they become too hot.  The temperature can be gradually reduced to 26.7oC (26.80oF) by 7-10 days and to  22.2oC (72oF) by the end of the first month.

Do I need to help my cat to rear her kittens?

Occasionally kittens will be born prematurely.  They will be small, thin, and have little or no hair.  To keep such kittens alive requires intensive nursing care.  Premature kittens often fail to nurse, and hence may need to be fed with a syringe, bottle or stomach tube.  They also need to be kept warm if the queen rejects them (see later).

A normal vigorous kitten, when warm and dry, needs no assistance in finding its mother’s teat and commencing to suck.  Occasionally an exhausted, restless, nervous or ill queen may fail to assist.  Failure on the part of the cat to nurse its kittens should be checked by a veterinary surgeon since if the mother cannot care for the kittens they may need to be hand reared.  (For further information on raising kittens please see separate leaflet).

Are there any post-kittening complications I may need to know about?

1. Retention of Foetal Membranes

Occasionally a cat may fail to pass the final set of foetal membranes after parturition appears to be complete.  She will probably show some signs of restlessness and abdominal discomfort, and may be unwilling to settle with her kittens during the 24-72 hours after parturition.  Her appetite may be poor and a brownish vaginal discharge may be seen.  Examination will show a raised temperature and palpation of the abdomen will disclose a thickened lumpy area of womb.  Veterinary treatment is required.  Antibiotic cover is necessary and hormones in the form of ecbolics may be necessary to cause the expulsion of the retained membranes.  Occasionally it is possible by gentle palpation to cause the cat to strain and pass them.

2. Metritis

Metritis (inflammation of the womb), usually occurs within three days of parturition.  The cat is much more obviously ill than with simple retention of foetal membranes.  She will be dull and lethargic, completely ignore her kittens and refuse food.  She may have an increased thirst and may vomit.  A purulent, foul-smelling discharge is present coming from her vagina and she will have a fever.  On palpation the abdomen is tender and the uterus is thickened.  Veterinary treatment is required, usually consisting of antibiotics.

3. Mastitis

Mastitis in its acute suppurative form sometimes occurs during early lactation.  It is usually confined to one gland and may follow a simple congestion or overstocking.  The affected gland will be tense, hot, painful and enlarged.  If it is only congested, the application of gentle heat and subsequent gentle massage will bring normal milk out of the teat orifice, and the situation may be speedily relieved by milking the gland concerned.  If an abscess is present, the cat will be off her food, dull and feverish, and in addition to pain and swelling in the gland, a pointing, or purplish area of accumulated pus will be seen.  Veterinary treatment is needed.

4. Lactation Tetany

In the cat lactation tetany tends to be seen 17 days to eight weeks post kittening.  The condition involves a sudden drop in the amount of calcium circulating in the bloodstream, associated with the demands of milk production.  The affected cat usually has a fairly large litter to suckle.  The first signs of the onset of the condition include inco-ordination and tetanic muscular spasms, with later collapse and coma.  Treatment by the intravenous injection of calcium preparations leads to a spectacular reversal of the condition.  A later subcutaneous injection may be required to maintain the recovery.  Kittens should be removed from the cat if old enough, otherwise their numbers must be reduced or supplementary feeding given.  Any affected cat should only be allowed to rear a small number of kittens at any subsequent litter.  Lactation tetany often occurs after each kittening so this must be remembered when considering the advisability of breeding from an affected queen.